Bundi

Rudyard Kipling visited Bundi in 1887 and wrote: "If you want to see what Rajput architecture was, go to Bundi." That was 130 years ago. The architecture hasn't changed — and neither has the absence of tourists.

Bundi is Rajasthan's forgotten city, a 90-minute drive from Chittorgarh and 3 hours from Jaipur, yet largely absent from the tourist trail. The old city climbs a hillside in a stack of blue-washed houses. Above it, Taragarh Fort looks out from the ridge, partially in controlled decay, partially still inhabited by monkeys and langurs. The view over the old city from the ramparts at sunrise is one of Rajasthan's finest and least photographed.

The Raniji ki Baori (step-well) is 46m deep and was built in 1699 by the queen regent Nathavatji. It is one of the most architecturally refined step-wells in India and is almost always empty of visitors. The Chitra Sala, a small palace arcade painted with detailed 17th-century murals, is open and unguarded. In most places in Rajasthan, this would be a major site with entry queues. In Bundi, you'll have it alone.